A debate that is always at the forefront of the fashion industry is fashion and size. With models appearing even more wafer thin and waistlines getting smaller and smaller, the promotion on models in fashion is causing a bigger debate than ever.
The majority of sizes featured on the catwalk are size 4, 6 and 8, which is dramatically smaller than the UK norm where 47% of women in the UK wear a sized 16. For the public, size 16 is regarded as 'average' and plus size not beginning until size 18, however for the fashion industry, plus size begins at a size 12.
It is only in recent times that the size of models has become so unachievably thin when representing high fashion. In the 1950's high fashion's client base was mainly 40 plus and the promotional material was reflective of this fact. The models reflected the consumer market, hopefully persuading customers to purchase if they can see themselves represented. The supermodels of the nineties were slim, yet still appeared glamorous and healthy, but the 21st century has taken model casting to the extreme, infantilising fashion models as the average age that they are cast becoming younger and younger.
The representation of the ideal in magazines is opposing to a realistic snap shot of women on the street, with the unachievable nature of the portrayal of women in media being cited as reason behind body issues in many young people. In the UK, whilst under the reign of Alexandra Shulman, British Vogue has never published a feature on dieting and Shulman herself has been very vocal on her opinion of sizing and fashion. In 2009, she wrote an open letter to fashion houses criticising the shrinking nature of sample sizes, stating they are 'miniscule' and that models who fit them had 'jutting bones'.
Franca Sozzani,the editor and chief of Vogue Italia has said 'One of the reasons why a girl starts a too-strict diet is the necessity to correspond to an aesthetic standard which rewards thinness.'And the current inclination to embrace a female beauty standard that exalts thinness has devastating consequences on many adolescents’ eating habits.'. Conde Nast as whole has made a pledge to not use models under 16 and promote a more healthy aesthetic, saying "Vogue editors around the world want the magazines to reflect their commitment to the health of the models who appear on the pages and the wellbeing of their readers," . However, sufferers of eating disorders such as anorexia have said that the media hasn't directly affected their disorder, or stemmed it, its more over having complete control over an aspect of life.
The fashion industry as they continue to cast different models will continually spark controversy over the size debate. However, if fashion publications look to present women in a more realistic manner hopefully diversity can be achieved.
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