Semiotics in the simplest sense of the word is the study of signs and how they can be interpreted by an individual. The study of meaning-making - the meaning gained from the image/object created on the basis of human understanding, generated through one's cultural capital, experiences and relations.
Whenever we look at a particular image or object, whether a logo, symbol or advertisement an understanding is conjured in our brain so that we are able to digest what we have seen and make sense. This is said to be done through the semiotic triangle where an individual sees a sign, through conventions they are able to identify the object, where past experience understands the conception leading to the perception of what has been seen. This method can be put into the semitic equation of:
signifier Thing(s) that give meaning, objects or image being seen
sign= ————– The sign being anything that conveys meaning
signified Messages given off by image or object
The idea of semiotics came from the work of Linguist Ferdinand de Sassure (who stated that a sign is made from the signifier and the signified) and Charles Sandes Pierce who believed semiotics to be the relationship between the symbol, icon and index. Their work combined created the equation above.
Semiotics are important in fashion as fashion itself, through the garments worn when and where and by whom is a form of communication - and the reading of clothing as symbolism, enables an individual to withdraw messages and meanings. Clothing can be interpreted as a unique language, the items someone wears speaking volumes about their individual character and personality, style as the languages varying idiolect. For example, people may claim to 'wear what they like' - however that mantra in itself, by choosing the specific items, the individual has unconsciously chosen to present a quality about them selves, showing themselves in a certain light - communicating with strangers without having to physically communicate with them.Elizabeth Wilson, Professor of Cultural Studies at London College of Fashion conveys this idea with the quote; “In all societies the body is ‘dressed’ and everywhere dress and adornment play symbolic, communicative and aesthetic roles. Dress is always unspeakably meaningful.”
The meaning interpreted is of course respective of the individuals understanding, therefore difficult culturesand those with conflicting beliefs will have a varied understanding. Fred David, author of ‘Fashion, Culture and Identity’ quotes:
“The chief difficulty of understanding fashion in its apparent vagaries is the lack of exact knowledge of the unconscious symbolisms attaching to forms, colours, textures, postures and other expressive elements in cultures. The difficulty is increased by the fact that some of the expressive elements tend to have quite different symbolic references in different areas.” This is an issue apparent in advertising, a brand will try and promote a product adhering to their specific ideology however, when promoting to varying markets this ideology can be miss constructed and construed. This may become particularly difficult in the future with the rise of the emerging economies such as the MINTs and BRICs. Unlike the majority of western cultures, they have polarised views of what is acceptable in terms of presentation of individuals in advertising and the exposure of skin. Brands will have to take this into consideration when they move to promote more heavily in these economies, regarding what way potential consumers will interpret the advertisement is essential to convey the right message and ensure the success of the brand.
An example of how an advert can be read through the semiotic equation is the analysis of the Sisley advert.
Signifier
Initially , at first glance, the consumer can see two women snorting a white substance, assumably cocaine. Upon closer inspection, the white substance is a dress. One of the two women in the advert has only the whites of her eyes visible, presumably the effects of drug use. In support of the imagery is the tagline 'fashion junkie'. The women as fashion 'junkies' are getting their fix from Sisley clothing.
Signified
The message form the advert when encoded is that fashion is like a drug, so the brand should appeal to those who are addicted to fashion. The adverts use the technique of 'shockvertising', purposefully creating controversy in order to be memorable.
Fashion advertising is a strong form of communication, using codes that tap into the consumers unconscious and through the power of semiotics advertisers are able to convey the messages implicitly to connote the brands ideology.
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